“DO
YOU want some of THAT meat in your breakfast taco?” a Mexican friend asks me as
we take our places in the queue at one of Tijuana’s best-known and most
celebrated taco stands.
“What
is it?” I ask.
Oh…
no sooner had I asked, I realized that the long thick piece of meat being
‘shaved’ in front of me was in fact a cow’s tongue.
Shaved tongue anyone? |
People
say they enjoy going to restaurants where they can see the chefs preparing the
food in front of them.
But
on this occasion I beg to differ.
Taco
stands – and the idea of simply pulling over on the side of the road and eating
among strangers – are woven into the very fabric of life in Mexico.
They
are inextricably associated with Mexico in the same way as a traditional fish
and chip shop is linked to England.
The
look of them, the smells, the tastes, even the sound of them, is so unique you
can only be in Mexico.
And
it seems that over the generations, Mexicans have developed a technique to
eating tacos.
Much
like the Chinese with their amazing ability to eat soup with a pair of
chopsticks, Mexican folk devour tacos without any issue.
And
me? Well… here I’m like a clown who got left behind by the circus.
The
skill involved with eating tacos is something which I am yet to master and truly
understand.
I’m
sure it’s a secret art which has been whispered to young Mexican ears through
the generations.
So
what is the secret?
“Head
down and eat fast,” is one answer from a Mexican friend here in Tijuana.
“Big
bites, get your head close to the plate, eat quick, don’t talk, focus,” adds
another.
Good
advice.
However
no matter how hard I try, I end up wearing the tacos instead of consuming them.
I mean, how hard can it be...? |
Okay... |
It all went wrong from here |
Napkin
count for eating two tacos?
Thirteen.
In
the end I’m not sure whether the restaurant charged us for the tacos, or for
the napkins.
I
look around and other people have clear plates with no evidence that they ever held
food.
As
we leave the stand I’m fully expecting one of the staff members to shout after
me (between giggles) “you haven’t finished your food…”
Yes
I know, I’ve left most of it on my once-clean T-shirt.
New
sense of the word ‘takeaway’.
Eating
at a taco stand will never be classed as a fine-dining experience.
It
is definitely not the place to take a girl on a first date. Can you imagine?!
“I
really like you…” says the hopeful hombre with meat juice and chili sauce
dripping down his chin.
Cheque
please!
However
with all jokes aside, the food is goooooooood.
“The
beauty of these taco stands is that you can drive for miles and miles into the
middle of nowhere, you can be starving hungry, and then you’ll just stumble
across a random one right there on the side of the road,” one Mexican friend
tells me.
“It’ll
almost certainly serve the most delicious tacos you’ve ever tasted. They can be
the shittiest looking stands, but they’re guaranteed to serve the best food.
“That’s
how it works.”
I mean, you just won't expect this to serve Michelin Star food right?! |
Urban
legends are always associated with culture, and – given the national obsession
with tacos – it’s only natural that there will be some myths surrounding such
places.
“They’re
good, but they’ve not been the same since my friend was killed who used to work
here…” a Mexican friend proclaimed as we tucked into tacos in Playas de Tijuana
on another occasion.
“Car
accident?” I offer between bites.
“No,
he was shot dead by a gang.”
“Yeh,
while serving tacos right?” I add laughing.
“Oh,
you heard about that?” he asks me surprised.
“Um…WHAT?!
I was joking!”
Yep
sure enough, a while ago my friend’s favourite taco maker/server was murdered
while doing his job in this very taco stand right here in Playas de Tijuana.
Gulp.
Bon appetit!
Sure,
you never really know what you’re going to get at these stands.
Some
claim that another stand here in TJ once sold ‘cat’ tacos.
Admittedly
when you look at the meat it’s difficult to tell which animal it once belonged
to.
You
can get egg and shredded beef tacos, which is basically your ‘breakfast’ taco.
As
mentioned above you can also get ‘tongue’ tacos; chicharron (boiled pork
scratchings) tacos; chicken tacos; intestine tacos; chorizo tacos; and fish
tacos – or a strange combination of them all.
It seems that anything goes.
I’m
sure that if someone discovered traces of horse meat in any tacos here, there would
be a queue miles long across the border into San Diego.
Most
tacos with either a mix of, or all, beans, chili, cheese, avocado and fresh
herbs.
A relatively 'normal' taco |
And
most are actually delicious.
But
with each visit comes a new surprise for me.
Last
weekend Jacks and I took our seats at a taco restaurant in front of a cauldron-like
bubbling dish of stringed meat.
The
‘meat’ turned out to be intestines.
Sometimes you just shouldn't ask... |
Worst
of all… after we ate relatively ‘normal’ meat tacos, I discovered that the
actual taco tortillas are cooked in the fat which the intestines are fried in.
Mmmmmmm…
not.
Anyone
hungry...?
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